Gulsehir - St. Jean ChurchPlaces to Visit in Nevsehir

Gülşehir, situated along the southern bank of the Red River, boasts an ancient history when it was originally called Arapsun. During the Turkish period, the town was renamed Gülşehir, meaning Rose City. Similar to Damat İbrahim Pasha in Nevşehir, the Ottoman Grand Vizier Karavezir Mehmet Seyyid Pasha initiated major architectural works in Gülşehir, including the establishment of a complex comprising a mosque, a madrasa, and a fountain.

OPEN PALACE (ACIKSARAY)

Acıksaray is an abandoned cave village situated approximately 10 miles northeast of Nevşehir. Recently named by local residents, the village is known for its rock-carved homes and chapels. One of its most striking features is the extraordinary natural rock formations, some resembling giant mushrooms, trees, animals, and even human faces.

This modest settlement is believed to originate from the 10th or 11th centuries, spanning about one square kilometer. Within this area, eight complexes are arranged in a circular layout, each forming a three-sided courtyard. Each complex showcases an ornate facade facing inward toward a circular courtyard with the building positioned at its center.

The earliest identifiable structure in Acıksaray displays one of the most detailed facades found in Cappadocia. The irregularly shaped buildings consist of two rooms divided by a rectangular chamber and feature a sophisticated cross engraving on an interior wall at ground level. Though the heads are missing, four headless figures are carved on each arm of the cross, representing a bull, an animal considered sacred by both Neolithic peoples and the Hittites.

ST. JEAN CHURCH (KARSI KILISE)

Upon nearing Gülşehir, the impressive two-level St. Jean Church stands out prominently. The church’s lower floor contains a wine cellar, burial sites, and a cross-shaped chapel with a single apse. The design is highlighted by its barrel-vaulted arms, while the partially ruined dome adds to its distinctiveness. Vivid red murals depicting animals, crucifixes, and geometric patterns adorn the interior walls.

The lower level of the church is designed in the form of a cross with a single apse. Its layout is centered around the barrel-vaulted arms, though the dome has since collapsed. The walls are decorated with bright red paintings depicting animals, geometric patterns, and crucifix symbols.

The upper floor of the church also features a single apse and a barrel-vaulted ceiling. Although many of the frescoes are darkened by soot, the ones that were preserved were carefully restored by Ridvan Isler in 1995 as part of a conservation effort.

The upper sanctuary presents an impressive interior with detailed frescoes illustrating Biblical stories. Despite much of the artwork being blackened by soot, the remaining preserved paintings display reliefs portraying scenes from the life of Jesus and other Biblical events, framed by yellow and brown tones on a black backdrop. The niche vault is decorated with floral designs, while the west and south walls showcase rare Last Judgment imagery, unusual for churches in Cappadocia.

The frescoes inside St. Jean Church illustrate various scenes such as the Deesis on the apse, the Annunciation on the facade, and bird motifs below. The barrel vault features medallions with portraits of saints, while the south vault wing displays the Last Supper, Judas’s Betrayal, and Baptism. Beneath these is the depiction of Koimesis (the Dormition of the Virgin Mary). The north vault wings are decorated with scenes of the Descent from the Cross, the Women at the Tomb, and the Anastasis. The Last Judgment adorns the west and south walls, adding to the church’s rich iconography.

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